CORK TO KENMARE
The road heading south-west is picturesque to say the least.
You pass through small villages, with white washed cottages that have colourful flower filled window boxes. Bronze Age Druid circle standing stones, ruins of forts and churches overlook sweeping sea views that the locals seem to take for granted.
Kenmare was hosting a vintage motorcycle rally, and Brian was transfixed by these motorbikes from the 1920’s and 30’s, Rudge, Velocette, Douglas, BSA’s and Indian.
Some with riders at least as old as the bikes the rode. Newer models, AJS, Matchless, Triumph and Sunbeam some with sidecars and some riders with pudding bowl shaped helmets all descended upon the town. Our little Citroen 2cv fit in well with these antique bikes.
Tonight we decide to head out to the pub for some dinner and to hear a local band play traditional music. Soon we are clapping our hands and singing along with the crowd watching the guitar and accordion player sing Irish ballads.
Kenmare pronounced Comehere, was a good stop for the night but we wake early and push on towards County Kerry with the Rings of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula. We travel through the Killarney National Park and pass it’s lakes heading north,
The weather hasn’t been very co-operative so far and today wasn’t any exception.
Low cloud, fog misty rain prevented us from seeing all the views this area has to show, but occasionally we slipped out of the mist to see the beautiful lakes and green fields with there ancient stone fences. We keep hearing that this weather is un-usual for this time of the year, but we have been hearing this since we arrived.
CORK and BLARNEY STONE
We arrived in Cork City at rush hour and armed only with a small map we try in vain to find our way to the hostel we have pre-booked.
The City of Cork is actually set on an island in the River Lee. With pedestrian areas blocked off to traffic and one-way streets we were totally lost. Luckily we found a local and he soon had us heading in the right direction. Apart from a quaint 16th century English Market full of butchers, fishmongers, bakers and fruit and veg stalls Cork didn’t seem to offer a lot to see and do, so we decided to take a short 8km drive to Blarney to see the castle and of course to kiss the famous Blarney Stone.
Blarney Castle built more than 600 years ago has been the focus of attention, good and bad for centuries. Millions of people from all over the world visit every year to kiss it’s famous Blarney Stone.
You have to climb up a narrow circular stone staircase to the top of the castles 25m parapet, then bend over backwards and hang upside down in the parapet to get close the stone. I wasn’t about to kiss that cold piece of granite unless someone disinfected it first, all those lips must have left millions of germs, but we went through the process and managed to get a couple of photo’s.
The grounds around the castle were beautiful and we did take some time for a walk around the gardens before heading back to Cork for our last night there.
WATERFORD CRYSTAL
We spend the morning at Waterford Crystal, watching the artisan’s blow and shape molten glass into beautiful objects d’art.
From decanters, glasses and vases to trophies for major golf and tennis championships to the Millennium Ball used in New York’s Times Square and a beautiful crystal memorial to the Fire Fighter’s lost trying to save lives after the 9/11 tragedy.
We were also given a private demonstration from a master craftsman, on the cutting of the Waterford exclusive patterns into a bowl.
After a wander around the gift shop where all tours always seem to end, we looked at sending a set of lovely glasses or a vase home but decided to just take the memories with us instead, they are much cheaper and would be sure make it home intact.
Our next destination was Cork and we wanted to be there before dark, and Josephine is not as fast as she looks so it was time for us to hit the road.
DUBLIN – AN LAR
Dublin like most ancient cities lies alongside a river. The Liffey has divided Dublin into north and south for more than 1000 years. It’s old and polluted, not pretty or romantic but as in years long gone when it divided Viking from Celt and Norman from Norse it still remains the centre of this city.
Dublin is also a city steeped in literary personalities, and has a fascinating museum dedicated to it’s famous writers. Personal manuscripts and mementos belonging to James Joyce, who’s chronicle Ulysses, was set Dublin in 1904, Oscar Wilde, George Bernard Shaw and Jonathan Swift, best known for Gulliver’s Travels and of course the poetry of William Butler Yeats.
We were unable to enter Dublin Castle as it is at the moment being used as a film set for ‘The Tudors’ a series now being shown on BBC.
Kilmainham Gaol has played an important part in Irish history and it’s struggle for independence from British rule. Many political prisoners, including those of the Easter Rising were incarcerated, tortured and executed between 1796 and 1924.
This goal housed many of the convicts, some as young as 7, before they were
shipped off to Australia.
No trip to Dublin would be complete without a trip to the Guinness Brewery
Located in the heart of the city this site has been the home to the black stuff since 1759, when Arthur Guinness signed a lease for 9000 years on the brewery.
It’s visitor centre was once the fermentation plant, is seven floors and shaped around a giant pint, which if full would hold 14.3 million pints of Guinness. You finish the tour in the Gravity Bar, with it’s 360-degree view of the city and a free pint. It was raining so the view was obscured and we gave our pints to some fellow Aussies who I’m sure enjoyed them much more than we would of. When we left the Guinness brewery we saw a church was right inside the walls of the brewery, not sure if the staff pray before, during or after work, maybe that’s why the brew is so good.
Dublin is an interesting and vibrant city, full of friendly and fun loving people.
But we must move on to a town renowned for it’s glassware, Waterford, our next destination
P & O cruise?
Brian asked what I thought about a cruise with P & O.
Well I thought, P & O, Pacific and Orient that sounds pretty nice, some sunshine after all the rain we have had lately.
We set off to the cruise ship terminal in Liverpool, in the pouring rain I might add, for our 10pm departure. We parked the car, headed up the stairs, put the luggage in our cabin, yes a cabin this time, then went in search of the dining room and bar. Meals and drinks were included in our fare.
By this time I did know that our next destination wasn’t Greece, Spain or even Turkey, it was even better, Dublin, in the Republic of Ireland.
Having covered pretty much all of Great Britain, including Scotland and Wales, Ireland was the last destination in the United Kingdom that we wanted to see.
Dublin was awake early on this sunny Sunday morning, the downtown area bustling with people well before the shops and cafes opened. We found a great place for breakfast, Bewley’s a trendy well known establishment that has been around since 1840, and that served a great coffee, just what we needed after our 5am start.
The Tourist Information Centre was our next stop to pick up local info and to find a place to stay for the week. We were able to book into a nice self-catering unit in Dalkey, and it has turned out even better that we expected.
Dalkey is about 16k south of Dublin, a heritage town with a medieval streetscape and two castles right on it’s main cobble-stoned street. It’s located on the coast and we hear that Bono from U2 lives in a castle the next suburb, we will have to look out for him at the pub.
LIVERPOOL and THE BEATLES
We couldn't leave Liverpool without seeing the places we have heard so much about.
and book ourselves a couple of nights accommodation in the city.
Liverpool has won the award for European Capital of Culture 2008 that it shares with Stavanger, Norway and hopefully Stavanger has a little more culture than Liverpool, Else and Adam you will have to let us know about that one.
They are trying to transform this once heavily industrial city, many derelict buildings have been torn down or renovated into commercial property or inner city lofts. The once deserted dock area now has been totally transformed into the cultural centre with the Tate Gallery, theatres for performing arts and three museums.
But what we came here to learn more about was the Beatles, the 4 boys from Liverpool who went on to define a decade
We book ourselves onto The Magical Mystery Tour, and with Beatles music playing our guide takes us to see the childhood homes of John, Paul, George and Ringo.
Twelve Arnold Grove, a 2 up 2 down where George and his 4 siblings lived with his parents, now owned by an elderly couple, one of which was having their 70th birthday party as we stood outside taking photos.
Then past the Odeon Theatre, where A Hard Day’s Night was first shown, and The Empire Theatre where the Beatles played their last Liverpool concert.
On to Woolton Village, an upper class area, and 251 Menlove Ave where John moved to with his Aunt Mimi after his parents deaths. Now owned by The National Trust and opened to the public on organized tours. Past the gates of Strawberry Fields Children's Home, now all that remains of the place John used to go and play and where inspiration possibly came from to write that famous song of the same name.
Quarry Road is also in the same area, and maybe where the name of his first band, The Quarrymen came from. Next on to 20 Forthlin Road, the neat double storey home that Paul McCartney grew up in with his father and brothers after his Mum passed away from breast cancer when he was only a teenager. Many famous songs must have been composed and rehearsed here. Not far away is Penny Lane, not only the name of the famous song, but also the street where both George Harrison and Paul McCartney went to primary school. The bank and barber shop still there where Paul must have passed by daily on his way to and from school and probably inspiration for the song. Our last stop is the childhood home of Ringo Starr, possibly coming from the poorest of the families, it is now in a very run down, bordered up and deserted area that has been designated for future re-development. We end our tour at The Cavern Club, a place The Beatles played at least 400 times, starting out doing lunch time gigs before they became famous.
We have a drink at The Grapes, a bar reportedly where the famous four had a pint after performing at The Cavern, which was still un-licensed at that time.
All in all Liverpool is an interesting city, but we are not too sad to be leaving.
JOSEPHINE
Probably a little explanation is needed about our cars name.
Well our Citroen 2cv started life as a ‘Dolly’ model, then had some changes from the ‘Charleston’ model, was called ‘Charlie’ by the previous owner, but we have named her Josephine, after Josephine Baker the legendary dancer and entertainer that made the Charleston famous.
She’s in need of a little love and attention so follow along with her progress on our blog.
LEAVING JERSEY
After giving the Channel Islands a good go, 5 weeks in total on Jersey and Guernsey we decide that the housing problem was just too much to overcome.
Restrictions that do not allow anyone with less than 12 years residency, to rent at a reasonable monthly rate meant we would be paying in the area of ₤1200 a month for a small studio apartment, that is, if you even find one to rent.
So, we packed up our bags, booked a ferry ride to Poole and after a 3 hour ride we arrived back on the mainland once again.
We have also been looking for a car. After 4 months of trains and buses we feel we have decreased our carbon footprint significantly, and we are also a little tired of lugging our bags on and off public transit!
We have been looking online at cars, and an interesting Citroen 2cv is for sale close to Liverpool, and decide to take one final bus ride, we hope, to have closer look.
It looked as good in person as online and we leave Liverpool in ‘Josephine’ our little 2cv.
SHAKESPEARE AT THE ZOO
A travelling theatre company, The Pembroke Players comes to Jersey once a year and this year’s play is “Much Ado About Nothing”.
The venue is a little odd, it’s at Durrell Wildlife Park, a conservation area where animals in need of protection can live and breed. A 222kg western lowland gorilla originally from Victoria and his 2 female companions now make their home there, as well as bats, bears, birds and a family of howler monkeys to name a few.
Anyway back to our evening of Shakespeare, we arrive early to claim our unreserved seats then find a sunny place on the grass for our picnic. Just before dark we make our way to our seats as the actors warmed up by singing and interacting with the audience. The audience participation was great, most likely helped along by glasses of wine, beer consumed. I even saw a fellow with his bottle of port drinking from what looked like a crystal glass, all the comforts of home for him.
Although not sticking religiously to the script, and playing a couple of different parts, sometimes with only a change of a hat or cloak to differentiate between characters, the actors all did a fabulous job and a good time was had by all.
DAY TRIP TO HERM
Before we leave Guernsey we decide to take a day trip to Herm, the smallest of the Channel Islands, just 2 ½ km long and 1 km wide and lying just 5 km. and a pleasant 20 min ferry ride from St Peter Port harbour.
Cars and even bicycles are banned on Herm, although locals are able to get around the island on tractors and quad bikes during the week, so the pace of life is slow here.
There is of course a pub, The Mermaid, where the entire island seemed to be the day we spent on Herm. A gift shop where Brian got back at me, and some of the funny hat/helmet/kilt shots I have posted for your enjoyment. (Check out our pics).
A gracious hotel, The White House, where there are no telephones, televisions or even clocks, and some lovely self-catering cottages are available for holiday makers.
The beaches are uncrowded and the water surprisingly warm (so they told us) and clean. Lovely Guernsey cows graze on the hillside and it is a bird watchers paradise with many migratory birds resting here.
It would probably be too small for us to think about spending a long time here, but for a day trip it was ideal.
THE SHORTEST JOB I HAVE EVER HAD, (5 days)
Well I start work on the Monday and it’s totally different from what I was expecting.
Rosemary, a very pleasant woman is the Spa Director and manages this spa here in Guernsey and also one on the mainland in Dorset, South-western England. She travels between the two by ferry, a three hour voyage each way, at least twice a week, and works 10-12 hour day’s, usually 7 days a week. I don’t know when she has time to sleep, or anything else for that matter, unless it’s on the ferry.
Three beauty therapists are employed here, one experienced and the other two young and recently out of college. More experienced therapists are needed here urgently.
This position is turning out to be more of a challenge than I originally thought. It does have some good points, free gym membership at the club attached to the spa and hotel, and free food, breakfast, lunch and dinner, except you don’t have time to enjoy any of those things. Forty five hour weeks are expected, but were never mentioned at the interview, and I only accepted the position under the provision that I would only have to work one weekend a month maximum, The new roster arrives and I have been scheduled on every Saturday and also 3 out of the next 5 Sunday’s, 9am-7pm. It’s not long (three days to be exact) before I’m thinking this job is not for me. This adventure is about new experiences for us, but not killing ourselves working and not having time or energy to do anything else.
We invite Rosemary for dinner, a lovely roast that Brian cooked while I was at work, (he also did the laundry that day) at our little apartment and break the news to her. She was disappointed as we got along really well, but did understands the reasons.
So I do finish up the week, with my last day on Saturday doing six 45 minute treatments, a couple of reflexology’s and to top it off finish with a 75 min Hot Stone massage.
At 7.15pm I gladly walked out of the door at The Old Government House Hotel and Spa for the last time and am now in between jobs again.
Looking for work
After nearly 3 months of travelling we feel that time has come to start looking for work, especially if means we can stay in the Channel Islands a bit longer.
We start by sending emails to potential employers and agencies and end up with a few interviews.
Brian had a good interview with a building company in Jersey, but the employer is slow to make a decision.
I’m offered two positions in Jersey, both in flash hotel spa’s, and also the opportunity to be the assistant manager in the spa at Old Government House Hotel in Guernsey,
We decide that this holiday is all about new adventures and pack up and make the move to Guernsey.
Only a one hour ferry ride from Jersey and Guernsey is roughly about ¾ of Jersey’s size. You arrive into St Peter Port, a picturesque town where steep-roofed granite houses cling to the side of the hill overlooking the bay.
The town is a maze of winding, narrow, cobble-stoned traffic free streets.
The 200-year-old marketplace is having a face lift, but fortunately still keeping the integrity of the original buildings.
Steep staircases take you from one level to the next, and we are staying at a self- catering studio apartment on the 120th step level of the 200 step Constitution Staircase. I should mention here that we are carrying with us our entire possessions, (well for the next year or so), it took us a while to get to our place. However, when we did the view was worth it, we looked out over the rooftops and across to the harbour, marina and the castle.
We are told that our area is haunted and find out later that they used to hang criminals from the top of our staircase during the late 1800’s, luckily no ghosts were seen by us in our little unit. Also witches have been burned at the stake here, the last one punished, although only by a short imprisionment, was as late as the early 1900's.
Guernsey was home to Victor Hugo after he was exiled from France after speaking out against social injustice, the death penalty and the lack of freedon of speach. One of his most notable novels, Les Miserables was written while he was living in Guernsey.
Also the 'guernsey' or jumper or sweater, depending on where you are originated
here on this little island.
