GREECE
Our arrival into Greece was definitely the easiest so far. We caught the ferry from Bari on the SE coast of Italy, drove Fatima right up to the top deck and were even allowed to sleep and eat in her during the 12 hour voyage to Igoumenitsa, on the north west coast of mainland Greece.
Greece is a land of rugged beauty, nearly three quarters is mountainous, un-inhabited or un-cultivated. We cross the Pindos Range, home to some of Greece’s highest mountains, passing through areas that have been inhabited for than 3000 years, you don’t go far without seeing an ancient theatre, a crumbling pillar or a tiny Byzantine church.
At Meteora we visited monastic settlements that perch on huge and precipitous sandstone towers that rise abruptly from the foothills of the Pindos. Hermits contemptuous of the world were the first inhabitants of the crevices and caves that are abundant here, dedicating their life to prayer and seclusion The grandeur of the landscape and the security from raiders and robbers led to the first monasteries built in the 14th century, many choosing to settle here, halfway between earth and sky, and close to their God, in isolation and solitude. Of the 20 or so once here, only 6 remain.
The first monks reached these monasteries by hammering pegs into the rocks and building rudimentary scaffolding. Later they replaced this with rope ladders and nets, whereby people and goods were hauled up the cliff faces. Thankfully most have now been replaced by rough steps cut out of the rock-face that visitors may use, but the nets are still used to draw goods to the top.
The climb was well worth being able to see the beautiful centuries old frescoes and the magnificent carved wood ceilings, alters and pews in the small chapels. Also the views over the surrounding countryside was breathtaking. At Roussanou, now inhabited by nuns, after climbing the 160 or so steps, you must then cross a small bridge atop one peak to reach the monastery on another. It was just beautiful, gardens all in flower, a fabulous chapel and serenity like I have never before felt.
DELPHI-according to legend, Zeus released two eagles from opposite sides of the world, their paths crossed in the sky above Delphi, establishing this, the centre of the earth and the place where Apollo’s temple would be built. Pilgrims would travel here to consult the oracle or priestess, who had to be older than 50, because we all know once we have reached that grand age we do know all. She would enter a trance-like state and answer, for a fee, matters of business, travel or even war.
Not much remains now of the temple, stadium and many other meeting places and treasury buildings once here, but the location, settling on the side of Mt Parnassos, and over-looking the Gulf of Corinth, making it a very special place, even without the legend.
OLYMPIA-the first recorded Games were held here in 776 BC. The men’s sprint was the only event held then, but during the 7th and 8th century BC, wrestling, boxing, the pentathlon and equestrian events were added. In addition, men competed naked, (that might have bought into play some extra wrestling holds), and women were not allowed as spectators, (the spoilsports). In 393 BC, Greece under Roman rule and thus now Christian, the Games were banned, being called a ‘pagan festival’. It wasn’t until 1896 that the modern Games as we know them were revived and the first fittingly held in Athens.
The temperature was high 30’s the day we were here, so Brian and I decided against a running race down the still intact track, instead once back at our campsite we raced to see who could get changed and into the pool the quickest, it was a draw.
Not much now remains of the original Olympic site, but a reconstruction at the Museum of the Olympic Games gives us a small insight of what a magnificent place this must have been.
KYPARISSIA-we decide to take a couple of days to relax on the beach here, while staying at a great campground with the beach right in front of the site, free WiFi and a numerous cafés near-by.
Our drive through the southern Peloponnese takes us through some of the hottest, temps in the mid 40’s C and driest land we have seen so far in Greece. The twisting mountain road seemed to go on for hundreds of kilometres, and with only olive groves as vegetation. But this road also took us through some of the most powerful area’s of Ancient Greece. EPIDAURUS-it’s magnificent theatre built in the 4th century BC is still in use, and we are lucky to purchase tickets to a performance of Phédre, given by the British Theatre Company. Helen Mirren plays the lead role, and having seen her in various movies and BBC TV shows it’s exciting to be able to see her play the leading role in this Greek Tragedy.
We have an early dinner at a restaurant just a little further along the beach from our campsite, and even get a little dressed up. Dinner was superb, starting with a Greek salad and followed by Dolmades in lemon sauce and Moussaka, and of course a local red wine to go with it all. No time for desert as we have to pick up our tickets at the box office, and get a good seat.
It has been a hot day, mid 30’s and the ancient stone blocks are still very warm, luckily we bought cushions. Not long before the show is ready to begin we see quite a commotion going on near the front, Tom Hanks and his wife have arrived and the flashes of cameras are everywhere. He takes this really well and stands to wave to the audience, as well as taking a couple of pics for himself.
The performance was amazing, the theatre is known for it’s near perfect acoustics, and every word can be heard effortlessly. After a short drive back to our beachside camp, we sit on the beach and sip a fine Portuguese Port, the end to another perfect day.
This area is also famous for it’s healer Asklepieion. People would come from all over Greece to seek consultation with him, and then wait for a diagnostic dream, a visit from the harmless serpents or dip in the therapeutic springs. I wonder what my clients would say to me if I asked them to sit in a serpent pit while waiting for their treatments?
ATHENS One third of the 10.9 million inhabitants of Greece live in Athens, and yet the city doesn’t seem over-crowded or dirty. The traffic even seems to flow at a reasonable rate, although most locals seem to use scooters rather than cars to get around, they weave through traffic, often with 1 or passengers and not a helmet in sight.
We camp at Nea Kifisia, a surburb north of Athens, filled with luxury 19th century villas, and only a short bus and train stop from Central Athens. On our first day here a large bus pulled in and about 20 young Aussie’s filed out and started to put up tents, it was nice to hear their voices, it’s been a while since we have run into any Australians.
The Acropolis; (or high city) dominates the city, it sits 156m above sea level and was once both a fortress and the religious centre of the state. According to mythology two Olympian Gods, Poseidon and Athena had a contest to decide after which God the city would be named. Poseidon struck the rock with his trident and a splendid horse appeared, while Athena the Goddess of Wisdom struck the rock of the Acropolis with her spear and an olive tree sprang forth, it’s symbol of peace and prosperity assured her the coveted town would be named after her, Athens.
The Parthenon built on the highest point epitomises the glory of Ancient Greece. Built of marble, and taking nine years to complete. A double row of columns and completely symmetrical it once held a 12 meter gold and ivory statue of Athena. Although partly ruined today, surprisingly it was used as an arsenal during the 17th century and the roof was blown apart, this building still fills you with admiration and awe.
A number of other buildings are on the Acropolis, one we find fascinating is the Erechtheion where Goddess Athena planted her olive tree. Originally with it’s six statues of the Caryatides, although now only five remain, one being stolen by Lord Elgin along with a number of the friezes from around the Parthenon, it’s a beautiful building. When we were in London we spent a couple of days at the British Museum, and saw many of the items, statues and the many friezes stolen from here, it only when you see the Parthenon in person you realize what an crime it was to take these pieces away. There is also a large amphitheatre, a Temple to Nike and the Propylaea, a monumental gate you pass through and the only opening in the encircling walls of the Acropolis.
There is much more to see here. On the foothills of the Acropolis is the Ancient Agora, once the heart of Athens there are markets, still in use to this day. This was where Athenians gathered to exchange goods and ideas, learn the latest news and criticise the government. Socrates was imprisoned, tried and executed here for such criticism. One stoa has been rebuilt and is now houses a fascinating museum, although the best museum is brand new, costing €130 million and only opened a month or so ago and is built over the cities ruins and has glass floors so you walk over and view these. It also has many of the objects, statues, friezes etc. from the Acropolis, also with the temperature in the low 40’s C, a nice cool place to spend the afternoon.
The changing of the guards outside of the Parliament building was like watching a modern dance performance. They threw their rifles into the air, caught them and both guards in unison performed the most intricate arm and foot movements you could imagine. Arms and legs held in the air, twirls and foot stamping which went on for 15 minutes, and all this in the heat, at least 40 C. When they had finished a uniformed solider wiped the sweat from their faces and straightened their caps and uniforms and gave them a sips of water, all while they stood still and eyes front.
The food here in Greece has been nearly as good as the sights, fresh dolmades, souvlaki, calamari and the tastiest feta cheese we have ever had. We often have a Méza plate, an assortment of dolmades, grilled eggplant and dips with a glass of wine around 6pm then eat a small dinner around 9pm or so once the weather has cooled down. At night the plaza’s fill with people, young and old, as well as musicians and stalls selling everything from fruit to souvenirs, so it’s fun just to sit at a sidewalk café, sip your glass of wine and people watch.
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